In the western part of the United Kingdom, two stalwart medieval castles stand as a reminder of a time when valiant Welsh princes struggled against mastery by the English. These two castles, Criccieth and Caerphilly, remain as a testament to the bloody conflict between the Native Welsh and the Norman invaders.
It does not take long for a visitor to Wales to determine that two distinct types of castles exist in this lush country - those built by the English, which includes both those of the Marcher lords (like Caerphilly and Chepstow) and the King (like Caernarfon), and those built by the native rulers of Wales, such as Dolbadarn and Criccieth. These castles provide the traveler with an opportunity to see first hand the differences between the Welsh and the English. Never again will a visitor refer to Wales as a part of England!
Criccieth Castle - One Part of Llewelyn's Kingdom
Criccieth Castle is nestled high upon a hill overlooking glistening Cardigan Bay. Llewelyn the Great, a Welsh prince who eventually ruled most of Wales, built the castle in the early 13th century. Construction of the castle in such a strategic spot made it appear virtually impregnable. This position may have helped protect the castle through the years, but it makes for a hike today!
It is well worth the hike to crest the hill and be greeted by both an immense gatehouse and a scenic view. Today the gatehouse is the midst of a controversy. Many historians feel that it is too elaborate to have been built by Llewelyn, so it must have been part of the English expansion later. However, some historians contend that Llewelyn, worried about the arrival of the English, borrowed some of their defense strategies in order to make his structure more defensible.
The English Stronghold - Caerphilly Castle
It was these defensive strategies of the English marcher lords that allowed them to establish dominion over their Welsh subjects. Caerphilly Castle, a giant stronghold built by the de Clare family, has withstood the test of time despite the fact that a large portion of it was built relatively quickly within a three-year period. This is especially impressive once you realize Caerphilly Castle is the largest castle in all of Wales.
Parents visiting the site will be delighted by the replicas of four medieval siege engines, such as the trebuchet. Young children can wander over the grounds as their parents explore the history unfolding before them. One of the most delightful aspects of the castle is the "leaning tower", which extends from the exterior like a beckoning hand.
Visiting Caerphilly and Criccieth
Both Caerphilly and Criccieth fall under the protection of CADW, the government agency in charge of history preservation. According to the CADW website, the word CADW is Welsh for "to keep".
Opening hours for Criccieth are Monday through Sunday from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. between April 1st and October 31st. From November 1st to March 31st, the opening hours are slightly different. Friday and Saturday, the site is open 9:30 a.m. until 4 p.m. On Sunday, the castle is open from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m. Admission fee is £3.10.
Caerphilly Castle is open between April 1st and October 31st, Monday - Sunday 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. From November 1st until March 31st, it is open Monday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. until 4 p.m. On Sundays it is open from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m. Admission fee is £3.70.
Find Out More Before You Go
The castles in Wales are more entertaining and interesting when the visitor has done a bit of background research. The history of this fascinating country is incredible. From the hauntingly eerie ruins of the castles of the Welsh princes to the strongly fortified ruins of the Marcher lords, it is impossible to escape the rich heritage of this beautiful country.